Building with intention: Chinelo Nzelu on craft, growth, and the business of fashion

Fashion designer and NELO WOMAN founder Chinelo Nzelu is part of a growing wave of Nigerian creatives building brands with intention rather than haste. In this conversation, she reflects on craftsmanship, disciplined growth, and navigating the business of fashion while staying true to her creative values. Excerpts.

Your journey began with making garments from your school assignments. At what point did you realise that this could become a brand rather than just a skill you were developing? In the beginning, fashion was simply about learning the craft. I was focused on understanding construction, fit, and finishing, and I used my school assignments as practice. I made pieces for myself, then for friends, without thinking of it as anything serious. The turning point came when referrals started happening consistently. People I didn’t know personally were reaching out because someone had worn my designs and recommended me.

That consistency made me pause and reflect. I realised people were not just buying clothes; they were responding to a certain structure and intention in my work. That was when I decided to approach it with more seriousness and discipline. I understood that if I wanted this to grow beyond a hobby, I needed to be intentional about standards, identity, and how I showed up professionally. That clarity led to the birth of NELO WOMAN as a brand.

NELO WOMAN is often described as intentional and structured. What does “building with intention” mean to you in practical terms? Building with intention means being deliberate about every decision, not just creatively but also as a business. Before I design a piece, I ask myself why it exists and who it is for. I don’t create just to fill space or keep up with trends. Each design must have purpose, function, and longevity.

Practically, this shows in how I release collections slowly and focus on quality over quantity. It also applies to growth. I am careful about the opportunities I take on and the pace at which the brand expands. Intention helps me avoid burnout and ensures that NELO WOMAN remains true to its identity. For me, it’s about building something meaningful and sustainable, not just something that looks good in the moment.

You handled every aspect of the brand in its early years. How did that experience shape your approach to craftsmanship today? Handling everything myself in the early years gave me a deep respect for the process. From sourcing fabrics to fittings and deliveries, I experienced every stage of garment creation firsthand. That made me very detail-oriented and patient. I understand how much work goes into each piece, and that knowledge shapes how seriously I take quality.

It also taught me accountability. When you deliver a garment personally, you feel a stronger sense of responsibility to the client. Today, I still approach craftsmanship with that same mindset—being hands-on, intentional, and committed to excellence. Those early experiences shaped the foundation of NELO WOMAN and continue to influence how I work.

In an industry that rewards speed, you’ve chosen a slower path. What challenges have you faced with this approach? One of the biggest challenges has been resisting pressure, especially the pressure to compare my journey with others. Social media often celebrates speed and constant output, which can make slow growth feel like stagnation. Early on, I questioned whether I was doing enough.

However, I’ve learned that speed without structure can be damaging. Producing too quickly often leads to burnout and inconsistent quality. Another challenge is managing expectations, as not everyone understands a slower, more intentional process. But over time, I’ve realised that moving at my own pace allows me to build confidence, clarity, and consistency. That trade-off has been worth it.

How do you balance creative integrity with the commercial realities of running a fashion business in Nigeria? Balancing creativity and business requires honesty and flexibility. I stay true to my design values, but I’m also realistic about production costs, pricing, and client expectations. Creativity alone cannot sustain a brand; it needs structure and planning.

I pay close attention to my capacity and avoid overcommitting. Understanding my market has also helped. Knowing what my clients value and how to serve them better without compromising my identity. For me, business is not the enemy of creativity; it supports it. When handled properly, it allows the brand to grow while protecting its essence.

What did participating in the recent GTBank Fashion Weekend represent for you and NELO WOMAN? GTBank Fashion Weekend was very affirming for me. It felt like recognition of the consistency and quiet work that had gone into building the brand. The platform is known for celebrating substance, so being part of it validated my approach to fashion.

For NELO WOMAN, it marked a new level of visibility and credibility. It also reinforced the idea that intentional growth is being noticed within the industry. Personally, it encouraged me to continue building with confidence and clarity, knowing that there is room for brands that value depth and craftsmanship.

Who is the NELO WOMAN woman? The NELO WOMAN woman is confident, intentional, and self-aware. She understands who she is and doesn’t feel the need to overcompensate. She values quality and appreciates clothing that reflects her strength and femininity.

When I design, I think about how she moves through life—her work, her responsibilities, and her sense of self. I want her to feel comfortable, empowered, and elegant without trying too hard. She influences everything from fit to fabric choice and overall design direction.

What lessons have you learned about growth that you wish you knew earlier? One major lesson is that growth is not a race. Early on, I felt pressure to expand quickly, but I’ve learned that slow growth allows you to build properly. It gives room for learning, mistakes, and refinement.

I’ve also learned the importance of saying no. Not every opportunity aligns with your vision, and that’s okay. Growth should be intentional and sustainable, not forced. Understanding this earlier would have saved me unnecessary stress, but it’s a lesson I’m grateful to have learned.

How important is faith in your journey? Faith plays a central role in my life and work. It keeps me grounded and grateful, especially during uncertain moments. The journey hasn’t always been easy, but faith has given me clarity and peace when making decisions.

It reminds me that progress doesn’t always have to be loud or fast. Trusting God has helped me stay patient and focused, even when things don’t move as quickly as expected. I believe grace has guided me this far and continues to shape both my personal growth and the brand.

Looking ahead, what does success look like for you? Success, for me, means sustainability and longevity. I want NELO WOMAN to be known for quality, integrity, and thoughtful design. I’m focused on building a brand that grows steadily and remains relevant over time.

Beyond visibility or scale, success is about creating work I’m proud of and maintaining balance as a creative and business owner. If the brand can continue to evolve while staying true to its core values, I would consider that a meaningful achievement.

Obidike Okafor is an award winning, seasoned journalist and content consultant. Obidike has left his mark on the global stage, writing for prestigious publications in Nigeria, the UK, South Africa, Kenya, Germany, and Senegal. He also has experience as an editor, research analyst and podcaster.

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